GAS POWERED REMOTE CONTROL CAR

Gas or Nitro RC cars provide realism and speed and are recommended for experienced hobbyists who want to experience something different from electric cars. The most popular gas cars today are the cheap and fast nitro touring cars, and BIG monster nitro RC trucks! First item to buy is the car itself. There are plenty to choose from.

Touring cars have 4 wheel independent suspension, 4 wheel drive, and 2-speed transmissions capable of propelling car to speeds in excess of 50 mph. Gas powered cars use 2-stroke engines. For 1/8 scale, .21 size engines are used. For 1/10 scale, .12 size engines are common. Engines for these cars come either with a pull-start (PS) or non-pull start. Pull-start engines have a built-in recoil starter to pull the wire or rope to turn the engine's crankshaft. For non-pull start engines, you will need to have a starter. The end of the starter is a rubber wheel, which is "bumped" against the flywheel of the engine to turn the crankshaft. Using a starter on a pull-start engine may damage the pull-start mechanism.

Nitro fuels are specially blended fuel for RC gas cars. All RC car models have guide books in which appropriate fuel for them is recommended. It is also advisable to use a consistent fuel type for a car as it helps the engine to give optimum performance. Chaging fuel types may disturb the engine performance of the car.

Fuel is also classified according to nitro content. Higher the nitro content more is the power. Fuel with only 10% nitro is good enough to win races and is cheaper than fuel with 15 - 20% nitro. The nitro engines use a glow plug (similar to a spark plug of a real engine). To start the engine, this glow plug must be heated. A device called a glow driver or igniter, powered by a 1.5v battery, is used to heat the glow plug.

The radio control unit is the electronics that control the speed and direction of the car. A basic radio controller consists of transmitter, receiver, servos and battery holder for the receiver, on/off switch, servo horns and batteries.

Use of quick, quiet and easy to afford, build and drive electric vehicles are still the most popular choice in R/C power for first-time modelers. Equipped with a rechargeable Nickel-Cadmium (NiCad) battery pack, a vehicle with a stock motor will provide about 6-8 minutes of run time. With multiple packs and a quick charger, an electric vehicle is ready for hours of use.

Even after the preference to electric vehicles interest in gas vehicles has grown enormously over the period of time. Vast improvements in glow engine technology have simplified tuning and maintenance, enabling many more modelers to enjoy the realistic sound and smell that goes along with gas power's acceleration and speed. Buying a fail safe unit is an inexpensive option that can save your gas car from damage.


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Engine Tuning Tips

Engine is the heart and hub of any machine. Its functioning needs to be understood very clearly before touching any of its part. A basic understanding of fundamentals would help in better tuning of the engine and in turn engine would give maximum performance and also shall have better longevity.

Glow engines can prove difficult to tune, this is the most prevalent myth. With a little bit of know-how, tuning a glow engine can really be a simple, pain-free process. People that don't properly understand the basics can easily become frustrated by what should be a simple, straightforward process.

Let us assume that everything else in the car is in shape and the engine is not giving any start up problems. Then refer to the instruction manual which should specify the instructions to set up your aperture size to minimum. This is important because if your engine cannot get enough air or gas flow then It would not run properly. A clockwise rotation opens the aperture and increases the idle RPMs, a counterclockwise slows it down.

Next would come to tuning of low-end mixture valve. This is done before the high-end (main needle) adjustment because an improperly adjusted low-end can affect the high-end performance. Like most mixture valves, clockwise rotation will "lean" the mixture and a counterclockwise will "richen" the mixture. Allow the engine to warm up completely, and then allow it to idle, uninterrupted for one full minute. This would determine whether the low-end mixture requires any tuning or not. If the engine runs continuously then the mixture needs not any adjustments but this means that the mixture is either too rich or too-low. Check out on that.

To determine whether the mixture is too rich or too lean, listen as to how the engine dies out in the idle test. If the engine’s RPM revs up at the last moment and then engine dies the mixture is too lean. To correct this, turn the low-end mixture screw counterclockwise (out) 1/8 of a turn (always make adjustments in 1/8 turn) and retry the idle test. If, on the other hand, it begins to wind down and you notice a change in how the exhaust sounds in the last few seconds, then your engine is running too rich. To correct this, turn the low-end mixture screw clockwise (in) 1/8 of a turn and then retry the idle test.

The air and the fuel pass into the engine through vacuum method. The mechanism that is responsible to pass this fuel and air in specific proportion is the carburetor. Adjusting the carburetor would ensure how much of this gas/air mixture reaches the engine and to what proportion of gas to air passes on to the engine. By reducing the amount of fuel per volume of air, the mixture would be come – lean; and by increasing the amount of fuel the mixture would become – rich.

Most of the changes would not be visible for sometime. You shall need to give a dry run to the engine before the adjustments to take place and be visible. Running on lean side may give temporary thrill but running the engine on the rich side would give better engine performance. Changes in temperature also affect the tuning. Change in temperature or weather condition would require tuning of engine.

Along with increased experience in learning the "Sounds" of a glow engine and use of a quality temperature gauge, will make you an Ace at tuning your engine... Tuning your Models engine is not "rocket science" and is fairly easy once you completely understand the how the carburetor works and the effects it has on your engines performance and sound. With some time and experience, it will become second nature to you... just be patient and perspective and the knowledge you gain will take the voodoo out of this great hobby.



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COSTING FACTOR FOR RC MODEL

Well if you thought choosing a model was only a tough job for the ad agencies and brand building companies; give a rain check on your opinion. Every RC enthusiast one time or the other faces the question of choosing the RC model whether to go for a Nitro or an Electric Model or to choose between a Gas and a Battery operated model?

To get a frank opinion on the same it is always better to ask people with various demographic backgrounds who essentially have a different taste and choices. This makes easier to know the real pros and cons of any choice. Those who feel passionately may have prejudices over their opinion and may not tell the cons too frankly. Similarly those who prefer not to agree may prefer to overlook the pros of a model.

In the end you should have all sorts or opinion about each category or model and the final choice should always be your own that makes your feel comfortable, suits your budget, is easier for you to handle and costs you less maintenance. You should not make your choices just because someone else prefers to choose it and then may be you are not comfortable with it later on.

The foremost criterion for any one to go in for an investment for a hobby is the cost. The budget needs to be fixed. As such electric kits come fall in the less expensive category for initial investment. Although they give most enjoyment but one ends up paying more for the battery packs, battery chargers, accessories, etc. This in the long run means that you have more stuff for maintenance later on and it also means that the recurring costs for the same are substantial. With some time gap the total investment in part ends up to paying equivalent to a Nitro pack.

Care to be taken for electric set up is to buy quality stuff over cheap quantities. Cheap stuff would require sooner replacement and no repairs. Packs of quality batteries and quality charger would bring down your recurring costs in the long run.

Nitro kits come in expensive with the initial investment. Even though you buy inexpensive engines or accessories but their initial costs would be more than the electric ones.

Another criterion that affects the cost is the maintenance and operation. As discussed earlier recurring costs for electric model can in the end compare up to initial cost of a Nitro pack. But another factor that greatly influences the recurring cost is the frequency of use and tracks. If you are using your model on rough tracks then it would obviously require more maintenance and regular use of your tool kit or cleaning equipments.

Both the types of models have their own typical power systems that require regular maintenance. Frequency of operation or frequency of use of your model would cause faster wear and tear and would mean regular maintenance.

If your model does not meet any mishap, crash or breakdown even then nitro vehicles require much more maintenance than electric ones. For an electric kit their batteries need to be taken care of properly, condition properly and stored at proper temperatures etc to maintain their charge.

In a nut shell, the over all cost difference between the two is not much but the only difference lies between the initial investments of both. Therefore if cost is not a much affecting factor you can choose any model but if you are short of dimes then it is safe to go in for electric setup. These would not only require much maintenance and if taken care properly would give cool enjoyment to an RC enthusiast.

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COMPARISON BETWEEN NITRO “GAS” & ELECTRIC RC CARS

RC cars can go very fast. Gas powered RC cars can accelerate for 0 - 60 mph in less than 2 seconds. But the hall of fame cars are all electric cars. So the best guess can be that electric RC Cars seem to dominate. On the other hand talking of racing over 30 to 60 minutes long, gas cars can consistently post the fastest lap speeds.

R/C cars started in 1/8th Scale On-Road Gas class. And when it comes to pure performance, nothing beats the speed and realism of 1/8th scale on-road gas cars. They give speed from Zero – to - sixty miles per hour (mph) in 1.5 seconds, at racing speeds of over 70 mph. And these are real speeds as captured by radar guns. For power, these cars use 3.5cc 2-stroke engines capable of producing 2 horsepower. Power is delivered via a 2-speed or 3-speed automatic transmission to a 2WD or 4WD full suspension chassis. Wide, low profile foam tires produce the grip needed to propel these machines to incredible speeds.

1/10th Scale Off-Road RC Electric Trucks are probably the most popular class. These cars (i.e. buggies, racing trucks, monster trucks) can be run on almost any type of surface. Dirt, dust, water, and jumps add to the fun. These cars also make use of the standard 540 electric motor. The main difference to on-road is the suspension system. Long shock absorbers keep RC electric trucks stable over bumpy surfaces.

Tires are also bigger, have deeper threads or spikes, and are made of rubber. 2WD is still the most popular class for off-road, although there are plenty of 4WD cars to choose from. Early electric cars were 1/12th scale run on-road. Today’s cars are run indoors and outdoors, on asphalt or on smooth carpet. These cars make use of 540 size electric motors, powered by 4 or 7 cell batteries. Pan chassis with direct drive transmission are the norm. Foam tires are used and lightweight Lexan bodies are used.

Because of its small size, 1/12th scale cars are lightweight, and have good power-to-weight ratio. 30+ mph speeds are achievable even with the basic Mabuchi stock motor.

1/10th Scale Gas Touring Cars are similar to electric touring cars, but with more power and 2-speed transmission. At 190mm, these cars are slightly narrower and smaller than the 200mm models. These cars are tamer in performance as compared to 1/8th scale on-road gas, but still capable of speeds in excess of 50mph.

Performance at the track is similar to their electric counterparts. At twisty turns, electrics are usually faster. However, the 2-speed transmission allows gas touring cars to achieve higher top speeds. Some of these cars are Team Associated Nitro TC3 and OFNA LD3 RTR. These cars have an engine of Force .12 that gives a speed of 40 mph.

1/8th Scale Off-Road Gas Trucks combines the speed and power of a 3.5cc engine with the fun of running in off-road conditions. These buggies need and use 4WD to transfer the power of the 3.5cc engines to the track. Sticky rubber tires provide the much-needed grip. HPI Savage 25 Nitro Monster Truck, Associated Monster GT, HPI Nitro Savage 21 RTR Monster Truck, Tamiya Terra Crusher Gas Truck, 1/10 Traxxas Tmaxx or T-Maxx Nitro RC Truck are some of the 1/8th scale off road gas trucks.


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Common Terms Explained for RC Cars (Part 2)

Commutator is also known as 'com' for short. It is the part of the rotor (the part inside which turns) which has three copper contact for the brushes to run on. Keep clean and skim regularly for optimal efficiency and motor life. Brushes are the two copper contacts that supply power to the commutator of the motor. These should be replaced regularly for optimal efficiency and motor life. When a motor has been used several times, the commutator can become deformed, thereby reducing the motor's efficiency. Skimming refers to placing the motor's rotor on a small lathe and turning-down the commutator so that the surface is smooth and round again.

When two or more drivers in a race are using the same frequency, causing interference to one, or both of the drivers it is known as Frequency Clash. All radio-controlled equipment uses crystals to set the frequency which they operate on. Crystals resonate at a set frequency when an electric current is passed through them. They are very delicate and should be stored and handled with great care. Crystals come in pairs, one for the transmitter which is marked 'TX', and one for the receivers which is marked 'RX'. Make sure you use the correct crystals, it DOES make a difference.

A car dives when it is under heavy breaking. This is because of the momentum the car has built-up is being resisted by the breaking force of the motor. The front slings store some of that energy by compressing, this making the front of the car drop. Dive is the opposite of squat. When heavy acceleration is applied to the car at relatively low speed, the forward force exerted by the motor is resisted by the inertia of the car. The rear springs store some of this energy (temporarily) by compressing, thus making the rear of the car drop. This is known as Squat.

Dampers absorb the excess energy stored by the strings when the car goes over a bump. Without dampers the car would bounce up and down uncontrollably. But when you car has just has so much grip that the body roll is just too great, causing the car to completely roll over onto its side it is known as the Grip Roll.

Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) is the electronic box that takes the throttle/brake signal from the receiver and feeds the appropriate amount of power to the motor. But when your car makes a sudden twitch causing you to lose control, it is known as the Glitch. This is usually due to some sort of electrical interference. Transponder is a small electronic device which when fitted to your car, registers that you have completed a lap every time you go past the start/finish line. This is how your race result is recorded, so don't forget to fit it or you won't register any laps!

Trim is the setting on your transmitter which determines whether or not the car runs in a straight line when the steering is in its neutral position. When making a turn the car fails to turn enough, instead preferring to go straight. This is called under steer. On the other hand if while making a turn the car turns to much, making the rear-end slide it is known as the Oversteer.

Rostrum is a raised platform for drivers to stand on whilst racing, so they can get an elevated view of the track. TQ or the Top Qualifier is the man with the fastest qualifying time overall. BRCA stands for British radio car association. It is the governing body of the sport.

Inserts are foam or rubber rings placed between the tire and the rim to help the tire keep its shape. Apex is the exact mid-point of any given corner. This is the point where you should be closest to the inside of the corner. Kick-up is the angle of the front wishbones to the ground.


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Common Terms Explained for RC Cars (Part 1)

Here are some of the common terms explained for RC cars. These terms and abbreviations are commonly used by experts, manufacturers, message board users, old professionals, racers, club members etc.

Ackerman refers to the angle between the two front (steering) wheels when turned to full lock. Altering this 'ackerman angle' will alter the steering characteristics. A greater angle will give you smooth, predictable steering, whilst a smaller angle will give you more aggressive steering.The angle for the rear whish bone hinge-pins relative to the horizontal refers to the term “Anti-Squat”. Increasing the angle gives more anti-squat, meaning that the car is less likely to squat (drop at the rear) during acceleration.

Wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear axles of the car. The angle of the wheels (when looked at from the front or rear of the car) relative to the vertical is known as Camber. If the wheels lean inwards towards the car, the angle is said to be negative. If they lean out the angle is positive, however, positive camber is almost never used. Basically, zero camber gives the maximum forward traction, whilst more negative camber gives more grip while cornering. Caster describes the angle (when looking at the front wheels from the side of the car) between the kingpin and the vertical. This is part of the car's geometry which keeps it travelling in a straight line when no steering force is applied. It is not adjustable on all cars.

The relationship between the speed of the motor and of the driving wheels is known as the Final Drive Ratio. For example, a final drive ratio of 8.17:1 means that for every rotation of the wheel, the motor rotates 8.17 times. Lower the number on the left of the colon, the higher is the ratio i.e. more top speed and less acceleration. Tweak is the difference between the heights of the wheels relative to the ground (at the same end of the car). e.g. If the front left is lower than the front right the car is said to be 'tweaked' usually caused by a distorted or 'tweaked' chassis or unequal shock lengths

Toe-in is the relative angle between the two front wheels or rear wheels (when viewed from above). If the wheels point inwards (towards the front of the car) it is called toe-in, if they point outwards, it is called toe-out.

When people refer to body roll, they are talking about the way the car pitches, either from side-to-side (when cornering) or front-to-back (when braking or accelerating). Ball differential is a design of differential unique to model cars which use ball bearings instead of bevel gears to achieve differential speeds at both wheels. It has the effect of allowing one wheel to slip whilst still delivering power to the other. It is also known as 'limited slip differential'.

Tires which have a flat ring of ridged material molded into the rubber to prevent 'growing' at high speeds, an effect that reduces the tires contact area with the track, resulting in loss of grip. This tires are known as Belted Tires.

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Break in procedure for Nitro Engine

A good break in procedure is always a treasured knowledge for taking care of a Nitro Engine. The “heat cycling” is one of the kind that is good for breaking in. Start the engine and let it idle, after one or two minutes feel the cylinder head. It should be hot enough that you are not able to hold it for more than 10 seconds. Stop the engine and make sure that piston is at the bottom of the stroke. Let it cool down completely. It should be stone cold. Repeat the procedure several times, may be 10-12 timely. It might look like tiring procedure but one needs to have patience. This procedure is usually dedicated to first tank of fuel.

Now take it out and run it. Open the main needle one full turn. The nest four tanks should not run more than half throttle the speed should be varied up and down. Let it also cool down completely but every time one has to ensure that piston is at the bottom of the stroke at the time of cooling. It would be a good idea if the engine runs at 200 degree range during this period.

Next would be four more tanks running up to three-fourth throttle but the manner should be same as stated earlier. After this you one can go wide open and go in for another six tanks. These engines run best at 220 to 240 degrees plus a visible line of smoke should always be coming from the exhaust stinger.

If one has patience and take time for break in procedure then one is rewarded with engine that is stronger and runs longer than others put together.

Some thing should be kept in mind while doing the break-in especially with the heat method. It would not be advisable to start the engine with the electric starter. Before starting up the engine a nice suggestion would be to cover up the cooling head with something so the engine heats up properly. This is because without the cover the engine may remain cold. Then start the engine and let it run rich at full throttle for 2-tanks at a temperature of eighty degrees Centigrade. Then two more engines to run at ninety and one more at hundred degrees.

After this the engine is almost run-in but you shall need to finish the run-in with two more tanks after this. After such a patient procedure the car would be ready to run.

For starting a break-in read all the information available. Information never hurts, on the contrary it might help. Further, be very patient with the whole procedure of break-in. Start breaking-in patiently. Many people recommend using 10-20% nitro for breaking –in and to stick with the same fuel for the life of the engine. There fore special break-in fuel might not be really necessary.

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BATTERY RECOMMENDATIONS FOR E-MAXX

It is important to know what battery packs should I buy and how to charge them? There are so many battery packs available that it is hard to make specific brand recommendations. However, here are a few points to keep in mind about batteries and charging.

If any battery pack gives higher the mAh rating, the longer the battery run time. That is, a 3000 mAh battery pack will provide with twice the run time of a 1500 mAh battery pack. Battery packs with 2400, 3000 or 3300 mAh ratings are expensive to purchase. If cost is an issue, 1500 to 1800 mAh NiCD packs are very economical to purchase and work well in the E-Maxx The battery packs should be 7.2 volts and have a standard Tamiya connector as well and should be assembled with 6 sub-C sized cells.

The 6-cell NiCad or NiMH battery packs should be charged between 3 and 5 amps on a peak detection charger designed for both the packs. For backyard bashing or general use, a 3 to 4 amp charge rate is recommended. For racing, a 5 amp charge rate is recommended, but lower charge rates are fine too. If recharging the battery packs is required then they should be allowed to cool down completely before any re-charging is done else the packs would be damaged.

While storing, NiCad battery packs should be completely discharged before they are recharged or stored to maintain optimum performance. On the other hand, NiMH battery packs need not be to be completely discharged before they are recharged, but it is recommended that NiMH packs be fully discharged every 4 to 8 weeks. If NiMH packs are not going to be used for more than two weeks they should be partially charged 30 to 50% of their maximum capacity. For long-term storage of NiMH packs it is suggested that they should be fully charged. The easiest way to discharge your battery packs is to simply run them in your E-Maxx until the truck slows to a crawl.

It is important to know how many battery packs should one buy? Six battery packs is an excellent setup because then one can have two packs running E-Maxx, two packs charging and two packs cooling, which means that obtaining uninterrupted run time. It is important to remember to let battery packs cool down before charging them again or else it significantly decreases their life expectancy.
Moreover it is more economical to have two battery chargers. It is also the only way to have a whole day of uninterrupted run time or fun. Alternatively, a peak charger can also be purchased that charges two battery packs at the same, such as the excellent MRC Super Brain 969 Pro Charger.
Usually E-Maxx racers typically like to charge at 5 amps because their battery packs have a bit more low-end punch or torque. If one is serious about E-Maxx racing, it is preferable to purchase a charger(s) that allows charging up to 5 amps, such as the Integy 16X3-Pro v2.5 VESC or Novak Millennium. However, for backyard bashing or sport use, charging packs at lower amps (3 to 4) provides good performance and extends battery run time in comparison to charging at higher amps. Also, battery packs that are charged at lower amps have an increased life expectancy in comparison to packs charged at higher amps.
It is not difficult to choose between the type of the battery pack to be purchased. NiCad or NiMH battery packs both work fine in the E-Maxx However, people that have a low budget NiCD charger with a timer should stick with NiCD packs because these timed chargers were not designed to properly charge NiMH packs.
Further, NiMH packs can be destroyed by excessive heat. So one needs to be careful not to overcharge NiMH battery packs! NiMH packs are fully charged when they feel slightly warm. For charging NiMH packs, a peak detection charger designed for NiMH batteries is recommended.

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BATTERIES FOR RC CARS

If you had been using been running cheap nimh 6cells 3000mah and also a 7cell nicd 1500mah battery packs and you though these packs thought were pretty good, here are some wise words that you had been living in an ignorant bliss.

Trying GP1100 7 cell would make you notice the difference in torque. The wheels would spin on take off and keep spinning and if you put 6 cell GP2000 you would notice that it is faster than 6 cell 3000Mah

Batteries make all the difference, especially matched packs. Elmo makes GP's available to the common RC cars for very low prices. They're not matched packs, and they're not priced like matched packs either. Maxamps are also fine but their packs cost like 6 bucks more than Elmo's. Maxamps advertises "factory matched" meaning they are within .02v of each other, which is the difference between a 1.16 and 1.18 cell. So basically they are the same cells as Boom Boom Batteries.

Boom Boom Batteries are coming out with matched packs. They got the machine setup already and have to just make some packs. IB3600s have known to have problems with voltages, lifespans, and run times. The IB3800s are apparently way superior to even the GP 3700s. They have very high voltages and long run times.

For some time now SPC has been selling 6-cell, matched, loose GP3300s. If you are looking for 2 assembled packs check out their Twin Maxx Pacs. For a reasonable price you get two, 6-cell matched and assembled packs of GP3300s. Runtimes average around 425 seconds at a 30-amp discharge. They are great packs with good soldering quality.

7.4v 830mAh Lithium Polymer (Poly-Li) Battery Pack have super high rate - 10-12C and also superior power and strength that makes you RC car or airplane a true champion. It uses a voltage of 7.4v and has capacity of 830mAh. It weighs only 1.5 oz. i.e. significantly lighter than NiMh battery pack. Lighter battery packs makes your engine runs much faster.

4.8V 1600mAh NiMH Battery Packs for RC Toy Cars have a voltage of .8V, 1600 mAh NMH? It also has a receiver battery for RC car. One gets to enjoy highest capacity and running times. It is compatible with all Nikko and RadioShack RC Toy cars.

7.2V 3000mAh Sadle Battery Pack for RC Car High quality is 7.2 V, 3000 mAh, saddle shape battery pack made of matched NiMH cells (6xSc). It rapidly charges up and high drain current up to 30 Amp. It fits many Losi and HPI RC vehicles. The best buy would be to buy two battery pack Plus a smart charger to keep your car running. Some precautions need to be taken with its charger, like not to use the charger for low capacity batteries pack (1100mah) or charge any other battery using this charger. Similarly, this battery’s charger is not to be used to charge 6V battery pack over capacity 3000mA or 1500mAh at 1.8A current level.

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AIR FILTER MAINTENANCE FOR TRAXXAS

Traxxas is the market leader in ready-to-run (RTR) nitro and electric radio controlled models. Traxxas continues to advance the RTR category with innovative thinking and fun designs that make it easy for anyone to get started in the world of R/C models. From the phenomenally successful T-Maxx and E-Maxx monster trucks to on road and off road vehicles, Traxxas defines ready-to-run. Batteries, chargers and fuel (for nitro vehicles only) are not included with Traxxas models and must be purchased separately

Air filter for the traxxas needs to be cleaned very importantly for regular flow of the fuel. In order to achieve proper cleaning of the same a complete guidance is necessary. It is also important to always run the engine with the air cleaner installed!

The air filter prevents harmful dirt and foreign objects from getting into your engine and destroying it. A nitro engine is precision made and you don't want dirt and grit to get in their while it's running at 40,000 RPM! At those astronomical engine speeds, dirt will quickly ruins lovely expensive engine. Periodically, as the foam filter gets plugged with dirt (reducing power), one should remove it from the engine and clean it with household dish washing liquid, Simple Green degreaser, or some other degreaser. Gasoline or other strong solvents should be necessarily avoided as these could damage the filter. In a pinch, one can also rinse the filter clean with Rubbing Alcohol or even nitro fuel. It needs to be made sure that the filter element is dry before re-oiling the filter. Moreover a small cable should be used to tie to secure the filter to the carburetor to prevent the air filter falling off!

First the air filter from the carburetor needs to be removed. Then throttle is required to be opened fully and squirt a one second burst of WD-40' into the carburetor. This also need to be done for the glow plug hole inside of the cooling head.

Placing a towel over the glow plug area of the cooling head would enable to catch any WD-40' that may come out of the engine. Next the engine is to be cranked over with the EZ-Start system for about 10 seconds. If the model uses a pull starter, several series of short pulls should be made in order to circulate the WD-40'. This procedure needs to be performed several times.

Then the air filter element from the filter housing should be removed. Clean the element and housing components with warm soapy water or dish washing liquid and allow the pieces to dry completely.

The air filter base needs to be squeezed just below the housing and then the base out should be pulled out from one side for easy removal.

The element should be cleaned with fingers until completely shining. Compressed air can be used to accelerate the drying process of the air filter components. Once the filter element is dry, apply 30 drops of Traxxas air filter oil should be applied, part #5263, evenly around the entire element.

Thirty drops of Traxxas air filter oil is suffice. Oil from the element should not be squeezed out. Instead it should be spread evenly on to the element with fingers until there is an even color of oil throughout the entire element. Then the filter element should be reinstalled into the filter housing.

Traxxas recommends to clean the air filter after every hour of runtime with the engine (approx. one 500cc bottle of fuel). If the vehicle is operating in very dusty conditions, cleaning the air filter after every 30 minutes of runtime will be necessary to promote long engine life.

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ADVANTAGES & DIISADVANTAGES OF THE E-MAXX

This is the most exciting electric R/C truck to be released in years. The E-Maxx is the best performing electric monster truck on the market today and light years ahead of the competition. The E-Maxx is perfect for both back yard bashing and racing.

E-Maxx has been so far the best handling large-sized electric monster truck ever produced by Traxxas. It has more torque and top speed than any electric monster truck ever produced. Its the suspension delivers 4 inches of maximum ground clearance and over 3.5 inches of super plush suspension travel with eight oil-filled shocks.

It has twin fan-cooled 550 motors have 30% longer armatures and more torque than standard 540 size motors. Its 4-wheel drive makes the truck capable of going over any terrain and improves handling on the race track, especially around curves. It includes an electronic speed control (ESC), not a mechanical speed control or MSC. An ESC provides a lot better performance than a MSC in terms of throttle response and battery run time, which is why you want one. The stock ESC, which is called the EVX, is made by Novak and has many features, including forward, reverse and brake functions. The overall design is very tough and can take a lot of abuse.

Features of an E-maxx are very tough, molded composite chassis with battery cutouts that lower the center of gravity when using side-by-side racing-style battery packs. The battery holders accept both stick packs and side-by-side race packs. It comes with a custom painted body with precut decal set. It has body mounting posts, which allows for a large variety of body choices.

It also has a two speed, manual shifting transmission. Low gear provides brutal acceleration and tons of torque for climbing and doing wheelies. High gear provides an insane top speed of around 30 mph with 7-cell battery packs or 23 mph with 6-cell packs. Its pinion and spur gear changes are very easy to do. Morever, a huge variety of gear options can be installed. Its stock motors have internal fans and run very cool. Cooler running motors last longer than hot running motors.

E-maxx comes with ball-bearings, which improves performance in terms of top-end speed and battery run times. It also comes with a slipper clutch, which reduces transmission damage. This is especially true when jumping the truck. A very important feature of E-maxx is that it comes as Ready-To-Run or RTR, which means that one does not have to build it or install a radio system. Its battery packs are also easy to install and remove.

A huge assortment of aftermarket parts is available for improving both the looks and performance of the E-Maxx. It is good for both backyards bashing and racing. It give an outstanding performance at jumping because of awesome suspension system. The battery run times are outstanding considering the size and weight of the E-Maxx. Morever its parts are easy to obtain and can also be ordered online via various hobby e-shops.

As regards to the company, Traxxas provides outstanding customer support - probably the best in the R/C industry. It has also changed the way people view the monster truck category. The added advantage of this is that the E-Maxx comes within a very reasonable price category.

Although E-maxx has so many advantages. Nevertheless, it has its own drawbacks as well. Its stock steering servo is somewhat weak; that is, the steering servo will not turn the E-Maxx tires while the truck is stopped. It is also somewhat vulnerable to damage. A steering servo cover is recommended for deep grass or brush running. Although the truck is marketed as ready-to-run, but the tires need to be glued. It is also not offered as a kit and some people like to build their own vehicles. if someone is into exact scale realism the E-Maxx is not for sucha person. E-maxxx requires dual battery packs for operation, which means one has to buy a lot of batteries.

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